Mature Beauty
We talk a lot about anti-ageing in the professional beauty industry – but what about skin that has aged? There are plenty of ways to make the most of post-menopausal skin, but first you need to understand what happens to the skin as a woman reaches her fifties and beyond…
Unfortunately everyone gets older – that's a fact of life. Therapists are adept at keeping skin fresh and young for as long as possible, but as the body ages, inevitably the effects will be seen in some form on the skin. For women, the biggest change occurs during and after menopause, as Dermalogica Education Executive Victoria Schofield explains: “Menopause is defined as the cessation of menstruation for 12 consecutive months. At menopause, the ovaries stop producing the hormones oestrogen and progesterone, which leads to other body changes. For example, oestrogen is mainly thought of as a sex hormone, however, cells in the vagina, bladder, breasts, skin, bones, arteries, heart, liver and brain all contain oestrogen receptors. Oestrogen levels begin to decline as early as in the thirties, this is referred to as peri-menopause – the transitional state between fertility and menopause. Post-menopause is the months/years following the final menstrual period.
“The effects of these fluctuating hormones are vast: hot flushes, perspiration, rise in skin temperature, fast heartbeat, palpitations, mood swings, anxiety, depression and irritability, along with loss of muscle
tone, strength and co-ordination, slower metabolism and weight gain. The risk of osteoporosis also rises. Exercise is therefore very important at this stage of life.”
Effects on the skin
Virginie Claire, the distributor of French skincare brand PHYT'S, explains that oestrogen plays a key role in skin's functions. “Our skin has numerous oestrogen and progesterone receptors. Fluctuations
of our hormones affect our skin regarding lipid (oil) production, skin thickness, fat deposition, skin hydration and barrier function. Oestrogen stimulates collagen production, decreases sebum secretion, increases water binding capacity, increases fluid retention, improves wound healing, increases elasticity, plays a role in pigmentation and UV sensitivity, and influences micro-organism behaviour in the skin.”
With so much being affected by oestrogen in the skin, it's no surprise that the drop in oestrogen levels during and after the menopause has a massive effect on our skin, as Victoria Schofield explains. “As you age
your skin changes, but these changes happen more rapidly during menopause. As oestrogen production decreases, collagen diminishes too. Elastosis occurs and redistribution of fat changes the facial contours. Collagen production continues to slow and sebaceous
glands also decrease – resulting in less oil secretion, thus drier and thinner skin. Cell renewal and cell turnover continues to slow down impacting movement of moisture from stratum germinativum to stratum
corneum, this leads to a build-up of dry, dull, dead cells and uneven skin texture.
“Melanocyte cells decrease in density from 10-20% per decade. Melanocytes manufacture melanin, which protects us from the sun. Its loss means you are more prone to sunburn and, in turn, collagen destruction and cancer. Pigmentation and ‘age-spots' are very common in your sixties."
Helping mature skin
Not surprisingly, the better the client has cared for her skin in the younger years, the better her skin will be as menopause takes hold. “If you haven't taken care of your skin leading up to menopausal age, the likelihood for premature skin ageing is high,” says Victoria, “but it's never too late to start. With cell renewal and turnover slowing, regular exfoliation will boost skin regeneration bringing more hydration to the skin and improving texture and tone. Look for creamy cleansers with added lactic acid for a daily resurfacing action and consider a course of professional peels to dramatically improve lines, wrinkles and pigmentation.”
“Skin becomes drier through menopause so humectants and oil-rich moisturisers, hydrating masks and serums are daily staples to keep skin protected and looking healthy.”
SKINICIAN Skin Care Expert Lindsey Fenwick agrees that it's important to look after your skin at every age, especially during the younger years when much of the damage can be done, but there are many ways to help your skin as you get older. “In your 50s your skin can begin to feel more fragile, you may experience increased dryness and feel the skin is beginning to slacken. The key is to look for products that will nourish, protect and repair. If you haven't already, you need to introduce a rich night cream.”
Clare O'Hanlon, business development manager at Juliette Armand Ireland, advocates looking for one key ingredient in particular. “As we age, our skin becomes drier and dehydrated. I like to use the grape and raisin to explain this. A grape is lovely and smooth and usually
gives the appearance of younger skin while a raisin is shrivelled, wrinkle and rough. The only difference between the two fruits is water; once dehydration sets in, the skin resembles the raisin. So in order to get water back into your skin it doesn't quite involve just drinking endless
glasses of water. There is a molecule called hyaluronic acid that is contained in our body, but there isn't enough to keep the skin plumped and hydrated so we can use a synthetic version of it for our skin. Hyaluronic acid is not an acid though, it actually holds up to 1000 times its weight in water and therefore excellent at changing the raisin looking
skin back to the grape version!”
Targeted care
While a good daily routine and decent exfoliation and moisturisation help immensely, there are some strong, targeted treatments to actively treat skin showing signs of ageing. Clare O'Hanlon explains that retinol, also known as Vitamin A, can help. “Using retinol has shown significant rejuvenation of the skin, thickening the dermis, stimulating collagen, and improving the appearance of wrinkles and blemishes. Vitamin A can be over-stimulating so it is important to build your skin's tolerance. There is
a retinoid HPR (hydroxypinacolone retinoate), which is a non-phototoxic, non-irritating version of retinol that can be used daily. Vitamin A is such an important antioxidant because it improves the tissues of sun-damaged skin.
“Another vitamin that is essential for mature skin is Vitamin C, we cannot produce Vitamin C in our bodies and applying Vitamin C to our skin is 20 times stronger than ingesting it. Vitamin C fights free radicals, which age and damage our skin. It increases the immunity of our skin,
making it healthier, brighter and is responsible for the formation of collagen.
“Another excellent ingredient for treating mature skin is Matrixyl, which is a pentapeptide, palmitoyl- pentapeptide 3. It stimulates the collagen synthesis and repairs the skin. Matrixyl 3000 is even better and a powerful blend of peptides, which won an award for being the best active ingredient and reduces the wrinkle size, volume, density and depth. If you want to shrink your wrinkles, start adding products with matrixyl to your regime.”
Naturally, regular appointments with a skin therapist can help hugely in ensuring mature skin looks as good as possible, as there are a number of treatments in a good therapist's arsenal that can help mature skin, as
Victoria Schofield explains. “Along with chemical peels and microdermabrasion to regenerate skin, consider microcurrent treatments for muscle re-education to lift and tone the facial contours. A series of 8-10 treatments, once or twice a week, will be needed to achieve good
results, which can be then maintained monthly. LED red light therapy is also a great add-on to skin treatments for accelerated anti-ageing results.”
Key Products
PHYT'S Aromalliance
This line has been specifically and scientifically formulated to target the
various issues associated with ageing, including the drop in oestrogen!
The line uses a huge amount of plant extracts to target issues with
powerful antioxidants and rich vegetable oils to plump and smooth the
skin. The products are rich in humectants to draw moisture to the upper
layers of the skin keeping dehydration at bay. There are ingredients to
target pigmentation and skin lacking lustre through years of sun damage or smoking, for example.
Virginie Claire: 01 452 6973
Matis Reponse Intensive
Matis offers two products to help mature skin from its ReponseIntensive
range. Oleascience is a rich serum oil that boosts overall cell activity to
make the skin look young again, increases collagen synthesis, boosts
elastin synthesis and increases the support fibre density of the skin. The Redensifying Concentrate contains the exclusive Matis complex for mature skin, Desiderm, a vegetal origin complex that acts as a real dermis architect to fight against cutaneous slackening and improving the skin's firmness, tonicity and density.
Star Products International: 01 460 5055
Dermalogica
Dermalogica recommends several products for combating issues associated with mature skin, including Skin Resurfacing Cleanser, Antioxidant Hydra Mist, BioLumin-C Serum, Overnight Retinol Repair and Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF50. In particular, Overnight Retinol Repair is a powerful treatment cream that accelerates skin renewal
and reduces the appearance of skin ageing overnight. Active microencapsulated pure retinol helps increase cell turnover, while powerful peptides and antioxidant Vitamin C help fight signs of ageing including uneven skin tone and discoloration.
Dermalogica: www.dermalogica.ie
Dr Irena Eris ULTRA LIFTING skincare range
Retinol stimulates collagen production, brightens and evens skin tone,
prevents skin dryness, increases cells oxygenation and protects against skin damage caused by external factors. This is a key ingredient in Dr
Irena Eris Ultra Lifting skincare products and beauty treatment, which
work together to instantly firm and tighten the skin, improve face contour and skin density and reduce visibility of wrinkles by 24%.
SKINCARE PRO: 01 555 1878
Environ Youth EssentiA
Environ recommends two products from its EssentiA range. The Vita-Peptide C-Quence Serum 2 contains a medium concentration of Vitamins A, C and E that work together to help combat the visible signs of ageing to create the appearance of an even, smoother and healthier looking skin. Youth EssentiA Antioxidant Defence Crème is rich in antioxidants, including Vitamins C & E and Rosemary Leaf Extract, to assist in protecting the skin against the effects of UV radiation, which helps minimise the signs of photo-ageing induced by UV rays. It helps nourish and hydrate the appearance of the skin to create a healthy appearance.
Iiaa: www.iiaa.eu
Ericson Laboratoire Slim Face Lift
The Slim Face Lift treatment was developed for women and men wishing to effectively fight against the signs of facial ageing, without resorting to an intensive and invasive surgical treatment, but preferring a natural result. The professional treatment is enhanced and supported by a full homecare range, which features key ingredients including Slim-Excess, a solution of marine oligosaccharides that refines the cheeks and the neck to reshape the oval of the face; Uplevity, which stimulates the skin's elasticity; and Renovhyal, based on hyaluronic acid, filling wrinkles and limiting the appearance of chronological and premature ageing signs.
Hennessy Hair & Beauty: 021 434 3436
Casmara Hydra Lifting
The Casmara Hydra Lifting range is an eco natural product line that uses marine biotechnology, a new cosmetic concept developed from the fusion of 100% natural marine active ingredients formulated with seawater, which revitalises and tones thanks to the high content of trace elements and seaweed extracts. The Casmara Hydra Lifting range retains 97% more moisture than hyaluronic acid while activating 14 genes responsible for skin firmness, helping to reverse cellular ageing and restoring lost volume. The range includes a professional range as well as a full homecare range.
Eden Beauty Group: 0404 61295
BeautyPro Brightening Collagen Mask
To give mature skin an instant boost, BeautyPro's Brightening Collagen Mask with Vitamin C is ideal. The Vitamin C drenched sheet mask helps to balance skin tone and provide a youthful looking dewy glow.
Flair: 1890 564 040
SKINICIAN Advanced Restoring Night Cream
This intensive moisturising cream is ideal for mature skin as it contains Regenacell to encourage the production of APT (Adenosine
Triphosphate). An energy-boosting ingredient, it encourages the skin cells to divide and multiply more quickly making your skin behave as its younger self! Added Shea butter deeply moisturises and works to support the skin's barrier function. Skin will appear brighter, healthy and more youthful.
4Beauty Group: +44 (0) 28 9044 9744
